St. James Harbor Light - Beaver Island

The second of Beaver Island's lighthouses was built in 1856 at Whiskey Point, so called because the first white habitation was clustered around a trading post built here eighteen years earlier that made its profit by swapping provisions, particularly whiskey, and weak whiskey at that, for the produce gleaned from this archipelago. Paradise Bay had supplanted Mackinac Island as the economic center of Michigan's northwest a few years before (because cordwood was a dollar less on the dock here, not needing to be imported from the mainland), and this fine natural harbor quickly became a regular stopping and refueling point for lake traffic between Chicago and Buffalo. Added to that, the fishermen, fish buyers and shippers of sawmill products out and basic supplies in, filled the harbor with dozens of boats arriving and departing every day. The frequent marginal weather that affected those times as much as ours, particularly the fog, made the building of a lighthouse here a high priority.

A taller tower (41') was built in 1870 (partially because the mortar in the first tower was defective), and a sequence of keepers took up residence. Peter McKinley, reputed nephew of the President, was the second, followed by Clement Van Riper, who died trying to save the crew of the Thomas Howland. His doughty widow, Elizabeth Whitney, author of the memoir of Mormon times, Child of the Sea, was chosen to take his place. Keeping the flickering flame going in this pre-electric era was a daunting but necessary task. The last keeper, Emil Winter, was allowed to live on with his wife in the keeper's house after the light was automated and his service was no longer required. Before WWI his son from a secret, forgotten marriage in Germany showed up on Beaver Island and was put in the local school, but, speaking neither English nor Gaelic, did not fit in and left after two years.

In 1874 Congress created the Life Saving Service, a precursor to the Coast Guard. At first this was a loosely organized group of volunteers (who received $10 for each life they saved) who responded to a shrill whistle by rushing to Beacon Point and pushing off into the storm or gale in a small boat. Despite their lack of formal training, these hearty souls were natural sailors who defied extreme dangers time and again to save those in distress. Their territory ranged from the little islands northwest of Garden to South Fox, but many of their most dramatic activities occurred right in the harbor, where fifty ships or more might seek protection from a storm. Captain Owen Gallagher was in charge, followed by former Mormon "Tip" Miller, the man who saved the Martin brothers. At times both of them had to designate a crew on the spot from the available fishermen, but despite the difficulties not a man was lost, neither sailor nor savior, for the last quarter of the Nineteenth Century.

In 1915 the Life-Saving Service was merged with other agencies to form the Coast Guard, which expanded and regularized its role on Beaver Island. Some of the Islanders enlisted in the ten- to twelve-man crew, and some of the others married local girls. John Andy Gallagher, who joined in 1934 and was stationed at Beaver Head, told stories such as sailing to Boulder Reef to take thirty people off the floundering Eugene J Buffington in a June storm, including the Captain's sobbing wife, before she could split in two. In 1939 the Lighthouse Service, which had maintained light ships on Gray's Reef, Lansing Shoals (where Johnny Andy's father, Andy, was stationed), and at North Manitou Island, was added to the Coast Guard. Archie LaFreniere, another Islander who served for three years, did not elaborate the good times when the light ship crews came here on liberty during Prohibition; suffice it to say that the Island has a long tradition of defying laws imposed from outside.

The Coast Guards boarded at the Larsons, walking for their meals towards the center of the harbor from the north just as the Christian Brothers would walk towards the center from the south. The Coast Guard also acted as the fire department, going all over the Island to put out a blaze. They built an elevated look-out station at Sucker Point for watching the Garden Island channel. When Clarence Maudrie's tug got stuck in the ice for a week, the Coast Guard spotted him and let his wife know he had not drowned. The "Island Phone" was at the Coast Guard Station; in an emergency, that's where people went to get or give news. No matter what else was going on, though, when the call to help came "they had to go with no guarantee they'd return," as Johnny Andy said. Because of their jaunty friendliness and heroism they were an important part of this community for a long time, just as the light in the tower became an important symbol of the safety of home and hearth to many generations of Beaver Islanders. We are indeed lucky that our local government has stepped in to insure the continued shining of this cherished beacon.

Reprinted with permission from www.beaverisland.net

The Latest News

At the October 4, 2000 St. James Township Board Meeting, Supervisor Don Vyse announced the receipt of a completed Historic Property Lease for the St. James Harbor Light. The lease is for 10 years, renewable for two additional 10 year periods and provides an opportunity for the community to work towards preserving this structure that is so important to the history of the Island.

The U. S. Coast Guard is not abandoning the lighthouse and will continue to operate the light as an aid to navigation. St. James Township will have control of the tower structure and the surrounding land. By entering into the Historic Lease Agreement, the Township will be eligible to apply for grant funding to restore and rehabilitate the structure and the surrounding grounds, though any work first must be approved by the State Historic Preservation Officer.

The existing historic tower light was first lit in 1870 and automated in 1927. The original and present optic is a Fourth Order Fresnel installed in 1870 and, according to the lease agreement, will still be under the control of the U. S. Coast Guard. The free standing brick tower is 41 feet high. There are no keepers quarters as this structure was dismantled in the past.

A special thanks goes to the office of Congressman Bart Stupak, the Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers Association, and the ninth Coast Guard District Staff for their assistance in acquiring this lease.

If anyone is interested in this historic preservation project, please feel free to contact the St. James Township Supervisor, Box 85, Beaver Island, Michigan 49782. (Courtesy of Beaver Island Property Owners Association - BIPOA and reprinted from www.beaverisland.net)

West Michigan's Famous Female Lighthouse Keeper:

Despite common belief, hundreds of women have served as lighthouse keepers including several at Lake Michigan beacons. Elizabeth Whitney (1842-1925) was fortunate enough to serve as keeper at two lights in Northwest Michigan: St. James Harbor Light on Beaver Island and Harbor Point "Little Traverse" Light in Harbor Springs.

Born on Mackinac Island in 1842, Elizabeth grew up near a Mormon settlement on Beaver Island. She married Clement Van Riper and in 1869 the couple took over the lighthouse responsibilities at Harbor Point Light on the northwest side of the tip of Beaver Island. Although Clement was the official keeper, Elizabeth at age 27 did some of the work and was said to be delighted to do so.

"From the first the work had a fascination for me. I loved the water having always been near it, and I loved to stand in the tower and watch the great rolling waves chasing and tumbling it upon the shore.... Live seemed very bright in our lighthouse beside the sea," Elizabeth said.

In the spring of 1870, the Van Ripers welcomed a group of men who brought materials to build a new tower, repair the house and add a new brick kitchen. A new fourth order lens was placed in the new tower and the color of the light was changed from white to red. It was about this time that Elizabeth increased her responsibilities due to Clement's declining health.

"My husband having now very poor health, I took charge of the care of the lamps, and the beautiful lens in the tower was my especial care," Elizabeth wrote in her autobiography A child of the Sea; and Life among the Mormons (1905). "On stormy nights I watched the light that no accident might happen."

But, in 1872, a maritime disaster occurred while the Van Ripers attempted to aid a ship in distress. Clement and a companion drowned while trying to save the crew.

"Life them seemed darker than the midnight storm that raged for three days upon the deep dark waters," Elizabeth wrote. Her future uncertain, 30-year-old Elizabeth sought comfort from that which she knew best.

"I was weak from sorrow, but realized that through the life that was dearest to me had gone, yet there were others out in the dark and treacherous waters who need the rays from the shining light of my tower. Nothing could rouse me but that thought, then all my life and energy was given to the work which now seemed was given me to do. At first I felt almost afraid to assume so great a responsibility, knowing it all required watchful care and strength with many sleepless nights." A few weeks later, Elizabeth was appointed official keeper of the light. She tended the light solo for three years before marrying Daniel Williams in 1875.

A short time later, Elizabeth's daily routine was governed by the federal government's Instructions to Lightkeepers. This added to Elizabeth's duties, but not necessarily to her pay. For all her hard work, Elizabeth received $150 a quarter -- just $50 a month. Her new duties required the lens be cleaned and polished daily. Elizabeth was also required to clean and fill the lamp daily. She was also responsible for the care of the buildings and grounds.

In 1884, after 15 years at Beaver Island Light, Elizabeth requested a transfer to a mainland station. Harbor Point Lighthouse had recently been built in Harbor Springs at the entrance to Little Traverse Bay. Very few details have surfaced regarding Elizabeth's career in Harbor Springs. Annual reports of the Lighthouse Board report that a 45-foot well was sunk to provide fresh water in 1887. A line to city water was established in 1891. A fog signal was added in 1896 and in 1899 a beacon was added on the breakwater.

Elizabeth did complete her autobiography in 1905 -- at the age of 60 -- while at Little Traverse Light. She served 29 years as keeper of the light, until 1913. Elizabeth lived 12 more years -- to the age of 83 -- after giving up her career as a keeper of the light.

More than half of Elizabeth's life was spent serving as either a primary or secondary lighthouse keeper. She served three years under her first husband, and then 41 years at two lights as the principle keeper. She was noted as the first female lighthouse keeper on Lake Michigan. Elizabeth was a pioneer for other female keepers like Mary Terry at Sand Point Light (1868-1886), Harriet Colfax at Michigan City Light (1861-1904), and Mary Ryan at Calumet Harbor Entrance Light (1873-1880).

Sources:
Michigan History Magazine (November/December 1981); Women Who Kept the Lights: An Illustrated History of Female Lighthouse Keepers (Mary Louise Clifford & J. Candace Clifford); A Child of the Sea; and Life Among the Mormons (Elizabeth Whitney Van Riper Williams).

Directions: Ferry service to Beaver Island is available through Beaver Island Boat Company, Charlevoix.

Beaver Island Chamber: 231-448-2505
West Michigan Tourist Association: 800-442-2084
Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers Association: 313-436-9150